Dave ‘n’ Vera – the launch of David’s Bridal in the UK

Today sees the launch of David’s Bridal in the UK. Having read the re-hashed press releases passing as fashion journalism the focus is  largely on the affordability of the Vera Wang White Label.  It all must seem good news surely? Were we not all thrilled when an Isabel Marant for H&M collection was announced? Isn’t the ‘under license’ a well trodden path with  A to Z listers, designers and celebrities, adding a dubious gloss to cheap ranges. Rhianna & Fearne Cotton for high street & catalogue & the longstanding Jasper Conran for Debenhams range. Virtually everyone from Britney Spears to Jordan ‘creating’ celebrity fragrances for Coty.

In summary then, a harmless, great value addition to British retail that will do no more than sell a generic strapless wedding dress that has as much to do with real Vera Wang couture as a J by Jasper Conran jumper has to do with the Conran design dynasty.

J by Jasper Conran – designer beige metallic open knit jumper. Was £45 now £22.50

Except this is not the whole story. I am not sure I can quite imagine Alexandra Shulman, editor of Vogue, turning up and hosting the launch of a new Primark flagship. Yet in the UK the launch of David’s Bridal most significant media partner is the Conde Nast title Brides. The argument for this will be that is  sound business when ad revenues are down, the closure of the big American manufacturer Forever Yours will have left space to fill.

Put aside the notion that Brides should be loyal to their existing clients as a casualty of business and just wonder at the UK’s highest profile magazine hearty endorsement of cheap mass market dresses.

I am not saying that selling cheap mass market dresses is not fantastic business. I have perused the facts readily available online.

From Forbes

“The private equity firm of Clayton, Dubilier & Rice (CD&R) just took the hand of David’s Bridal a few months after its owners Leonard Green and TPG Capital put the wedding dress retailer up for grabs”

The deal was worth $1.05 billion dollars

The presumed business plan is

“Now that CD&R is in the driver’s seat … (they will) take the necessary steps to bolster David’s Bridal’s brand cachet –both in bricks and clicks– even further before presenting it to another suitor, or even position it for an IPO.”

( I had to look up IPO – it means an Initial Public Offering or stock market launch)

Bridal retail is a difficult business to make a profit in. Despite what some brides may think – and it crops up endlessly in chat rooms, blog responses and actually in the shop the common thought is ‘add the word wedding and the cost escalates’. Maybe that is true of corkage, maybe it is true of a popular venue in the height of the wedding season but it certainly is not the case in bridal. As the dresses are made to order retailers can not drive a hard bargain on quantity discount. Were you to glance around Net-a-Porter and see the price of designer evening wear bridal looks reasonable.

The difference with David’s Bridal is that they hold stock and control the supply chain. They are so large – 300 stores in the US & Canada –  that they can negotiate or set prices with a power that no UK retailer can match. They are selling at factory direct prices. I fear that this will add to fuel to the flames of perception that your average bridal gown is expensive. It isn’t.

There is a tragic human & moral cost, only too recently seen in Bangladesh, to low-cost clothing. While I am not suggesting for one moment that David’s Bridal operate in such a way, the cut price phenomena should be on the way out,  not greeted as the next big thing in bridal.

Often, daily even, visitors to our shops assert that this must be a ‘lovely job’. Agents, reps & designers receive calls on a daily basis wanting to open a wedding dress shop.

Does this happen because we are all budding Sir Phillip Greens? No – it is because of the dazzle, romance & glamour of wedding dresses. Their power to possess & bewitch. This means , unfortunately for some, that the reality of bridal retail, is, at the end of the day,  just retail. Beset with the same issues and financial liabilities as if we were grocers.

Which brings me neatly to my comparison. The big discount grocery retailers of the Asda & Tesco variety versus deli/farmer’s markets/speciality food producers. It is well documented that supermarket buyers wield power. They dictate market price. Is the shopping experience a happy one? Does it add to the quality of your life? Deep down we know that even Waitrose makes us happier.

Why I feel the need to be a mouth on a stick is a mystery to me.

Retailers – I am proposing that if you don’t know about David’s Bridal you do some research as bridal customers will know very soon with thanks to Conde Nast and Halpern PR.

Brides – no one can dictate how you shop, what you choose to spend and where you spend your dress budget I would just like you to remember that the vast majority of the UK bridal is run by women with huge passion and small businesses. A third of us are likely to  be unable to compete if David’s Bridal repeats its US model. Natural wastage according to a free market economy but not inevitable if local producers, service and provenance is important to you.

Vibrant, creative, specialist, independent shops are crucial to the survival of British high streets according to Mary Portas. You’ll miss us…

Emma xxx